Fashion Word of the Week #3

Diamond in the Rough

Fashion Word of the Week: GUSSET

Gussets are little bits of fabric sewn into areas of the garment that require a little special fit, a little more strength, a little more give.

Currently the most common gussets are the little oblong piece at the crotch of briefs style underwear. This gusset can be triangular in a thong style pair of underwear.

Have you ever raised your arm in a jacket and the whole jacket hikes up, because of the why the sleeve is set into the jacket? If you had a gusset in the armpit, this wouldn’t happen or happen to a much less degree. Armpit gussets are often diamond shaped or crescent shaped. People keep making armholes longer and deeper to accommodate bigger sleeves, bigger arms, but what you really need is a double gusset like blow.

You can also add a gusset to the crotch of trousers/pants/leggings for greater, easier range of movement. Or in the side seam hem of shirts to had strength to that little corner.

This is not just a definition but a plea for people to start researching, exploring, and using gussets in their garments again. Extra pattern making for better fit and extra sewing steps were removed in the process of making garments cheaper and cheaper so only the gussets that are required in the bare minimum of construction have remained.

P.S. Here’s my deep dive video on how to design a button up (or button down) shirt!